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Ennis Book Festival

13 April, 2026
Posted in: Ireland, Travel

I went to Ennis book festival with my Sunday book club last month. It’s a book festival aimed at book clubs. They know what side their bread is buttered on.

Friday March 6, 2026

I had a cold all week and woke up on Friday morning, sick as a dog. A wiser person would have cancelled at that point. Am I a wiser person? I think we both know the answer to that. I took the train down, snuffling the while. Ennis is in Co. Clare and, if you knew the geography of Ireland at all, you probably wouldn’t go there via Co. Galway but that was the train route that was available at the time I wanted and I took it. It was long. As we were outside Athenry, I saw this from the train window.

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The “Fields of Athenry” were not quite what I was expecting.

The train journey was uneventful except for my belief that I might die. I went through several packets of tissues. It was awful. Not helped at all by a group of women up the train who, in contrast to everyone else in the carriage , were having a grand loud chat, had lots of opinions (not all of which I agreed with, is Malta really only for pensioners?) and generally drove me bananas.

I had a surreptitious look at them when we were changing trains – they looked like me and my friends. Do you know how the people you dislike the most are the ones who other people might think are like you but you know are very, very different. The narcissism of small difference is the expression I’m reaching for. I found it ominous that they too were going to Ennis.

I was amused to see this poster at the entrance to the railway station when I arrived. I’m not sure I would be bigging up my links to the West Clare Railway.

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Ennis itself is really delightful. It’s like some kind of platonic ideal of an Irish market town. The centre is largely car free though this does lead to the outskirts of the town being basically several big car parks. Public transport in Co. Clare doesn’t seem to be what it might be.

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I crawled into bed when I got to the hotel. For reasons that were unclear to me, I was upgraded to a suite in the slightly old-fashioned but perfectly acceptable hotel. Just as well because (spoiler alert), that was mostly where I was going to be for the weekend.

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The others arrived and the whatsapp was full of discussions of dinner in the bar – one of our number had just arrived from Luxembourg and I was keen to hear her news – but I knew my limitations and ordered room service. Ominously, although the steak sandwich was excellent, I didn’t fancy eating it and only had a couple of mouthfuls before retiring again. I then spent the night throwing up. Between the cold and the food poisoning (or could it have been norovirus, if so I am very sorry for the mostly elderly people on the train whom I may have taken out), I thought my final hour had come. It was unbelievably miserable.

Saturday March 7, 2026

I got up and had a shower. Something of a triumph. I went downstairs for breakfast and had some unbuttered toast and tea forswearing the delights of the breakfast buffet.

We had a book quiz to partake in as part of the festivities. I was disgusted but unsurprised to see my nemeses from the train at another table. This, however, only added to my delight when we won the quiz (€25 book voucher each) though. And I didn’t throw up. I was thrilled but still a bit delicate and constantly blowing my nose. We had a terrible team name (forgotten) and when explaining this subequently to my loving family they suggested we should have been called “Pride and haven’t read this” and I respectfully submit this to you in case it might be of use to you some day.

We went to a session with Cecilia Ahern and Bryan Dobson where each of them recommended and spoke about five recommended books. I really took to Cecilia Ahern (none of whose books I have yet read but I might) but that view was not universal in the group. Anyhow, if you’re interested, these are their recommended books.

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We all went for lunch but that was a mistake on my part and having thrown up my lunch I left the group and went back to bed while they went off to explore the town. I regretted the necessity of skipping this adventure but I just had to go back to my sick bed.

Revived by an afternoon in bed I went to a session in the hotel on historical fiction with Andrew Miller, Sarah Waters and Nuala O’Connor which was interesting and quite enjoyable and, best of all, I started to feel a little hungry.

We had booked dinner in a nice restaurant – the Old Town Hall – should you fancy a nice dinner in Ennis, I can recommend. Most of the speakers seemed to be staying in the hotel upstairs and, indeed, Andrew Miller was peacefully eating and reading his book at the table behind us. I ate an entire dinner, I didn’t throw up. Sadly, I still felt a bit under the weather and retired early leaving the others happily chatting over dessert. Truly the lot of the invalid is not a happy one.

Sunday 8 March

I woke up feeling, to be honest for the first time since the previous Monday, really quite a bit better. Unlike my travelling companions I was still unable to face the full Irish breakfast but I had toast with butter and marmalade which represented a real improvement.

The last thing I went to see was a live recording of the radio show Sunday Miscellany. Many, many people are Sunday Miscellany fans and it sounds like the kind of thing I would like but it’s not. I’m not really a big listener to live radio and somehow it only really fits on a Sunday morning – it’s a bit of new writing read aloud and some music – generally pretty soothing but not for me. I only went along because some of the others were going. I don’t know whether it was my rapidly advancing recovery or the impact of live music and live reading (I am generally not a huge fan of live music though, I know myself to be a philistine* in this regard) but I found it absolutely enthralling, it was my highlight of the weekend. If you wish you may listen back here and here (they divided it into 2 shows). I expect it is not as good to listen back to as it was to listen to in person but there it is.

I then took the train back to Dublin by the more direct route. Should I have gone? On balance, I think probably not. Will I remember this conclusion another time? I doubt it. Would I go to the Ennis book festival again? Certainly.

*Do you ever think about the Philistines and the unfairness of how they are remembered?

A Londoner

12 April, 2026
Posted in: Princess

Herself is working in London. She spent some time living in Chelsea (delightful part of the world in my view) but it was a bit pricey for her (and perhaps a bit staid) and she is now ensconced in her happy place (North London, since you’re asking, leaving behind the groves of Chelsea Physick Garden). She loves London.

The job in the City seems to keep her in until all hours. I often get a call from her at 10 or 11 at night in the taxi home from work. It is a bit grim. I wouldn’t say she loves it. But a steady income is not to be sneezed at. I have spent many years telling her not to stick at a job she hates, I hope I haven’t been too persuasive in that regard.

She spent a good while last year supporting herself by tutoring and although it did allow her greater flexibility (when she was in Italy on holidays she enterprisingly rented a room and kept tutoring- only about €16 an hour to rent a small office, who’d have thought it?), it was a slightly precarious existence. Perhaps she is destined to return to it, at least temporarily.

Swings and roundabouts, I guess.

I do wonder whether she will ever come home – and she may yet move further afield than London.

Among the many things that have flooded into my house from my parents’ house like a tidal wave are letters. The letters my mother wrote home to her mother from England and my own letters to my mother from Belgium. Although the Princess and I have the, basically free, video call, in a throwback to an earlier age, I still send her letters occasionally. Three generations of emigrants, right here. Admittedly, relatively affluent, lucky emigrants, going for exciting opportunities rather than necessity but emigrants all the same with all that that entails.

These thoughts are prompted by her birthday which is today. 23, who would have thought it? Not me for sure.

It turns out that the years are, in fact, short.

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Not Oiling the Wheels

11 April, 2026
Posted in: Dublin, Ireland

The centre of Dublin and many of the main roads around the country have been closed by protesting truckers and agricultural contractors (they are annoyed about the price of petrol and diesel, aren’t we all? I await my next electricity bill with some unease). They are also blocking some of the access to oil from the refineries/ports and we are beginning to run out of oil on the forecourts. As you know, I am a cyclist and I have been able to whizz around the city with less traffic than usual but this is all a bit weird. It reminds me a little bit of Covid; especially with the difficulties people are starting to have getting to hospital appointments; getting home help visits and so on; mercifully the schools are still off for the Easter holidays. I’ll tell you what, I’m not sure we’ve reached peak oil in this jurisdiction; a lot of things seem to need petrol to run. Here are some photos live from the front lines (commute to work).

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Turbulent Times

7 April, 2026
Posted in: Dublin, Family, Ireland, Middle Child, Mr. Waffle, Princess, Twins, Youngest Child

Mr. Waffle and I climbed the Sugar Loaf on Good Friday. It was extremely windy and we were nearly blown away. I have never before experienced such strong wind on that mountain which, despite the excellent views and impressive appearance, is generally an extremely straightforward climb. I once met a pre-school class on the top and one of the little girls had brought her bag on wheels (just to give you the picture).

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Still, despite the wind, it was a very satisfactory day out, all the more so as when we left Dublin it was absolutely lashing and we nearly didn’t go at all. In the end we brought our rain gear and didn’t even need it.

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I bought some linen napkins in Enniskerry afterwards. Middle aged thrills.

You might have thought that as my youngest child had returned to these shores (briefly, for Easter) from his Erasmus placement abroad, I would be spending all my time with him but you would have reckoned without his extremely full social calendar. He came back on Wednesday morning (April 1) and immediately plunged into a social whirl.

I was delighted with myself on Wednesday morning when I sent a message to the family group chat saying “Aaargh, youngest child’s flight is diverted to Heathrow, first born can you help?” Herself rang straight away with many questions and I revealed it was an April fool. Mr. Waffle was using the flight tracker and utterly baffled. Middle child sent a message saying, “You infidels have no need to blow up my phone before 8 in the morning” so not everyone was fooled. It was my greatest April fool ever and no one was even cross with me (which can be a risk).

Herself was due to come home on Saturday evening and I was dutifully waiting at the airport when looking at the flight tracker I saw her plane doing pretty elaborate loops. It was extremely windy and, alas, they took her back to London without landing. I was so relieved that she was alive that I resigned myself to her not being here for Easter. It was all pretty hairy she told us afterwards: “I’ve never been on a flight before where everyone screamed at the same time.”

She spent the night in the Radisson in Heathrow airport (congratulations to Hamish and Nishal on their wedding which was going really well judging by the background noises). And, thrills and delight got in to Dublin the next morning. Middle child and I had an extremely elaborate breakfast waiting for her (youngest child still in bed, note social life comments earlier) – see those new napkins getting their first outing.

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Weird aside, there were about 30 young men from an American school from Ohio at mass in their blazers and the priest said that they were here to play rugby. I have many questions.

We went to the in-laws for lunch (oh happy day) and spent the day with the extended family. It was really nice to see everyone and even though the children played monopoly together which, in my experience, is generally not a recipe for a good time, I think everyone did, in fact, have a good time.

On Monday we saw Mr. Waffle’s sister and her family for lunch; went for a walk; and then dropped herself to the airport. This was not without its alarms as BA had cancelled the return leg of her flight for their own obscure reasons but all was well in the end.

Today, Mr. Waffle and I cycled to Howth and although it was pretty pleasant it is quite far away and I am exhausted from my efforts.

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Our beloved youngest child is joining us for dinner tonight before he flies back to his Erasmus exile at the crack of dawn. It’s my last day off work and I guess the Easter excitement is nearly over.

How was your own Easter?

Weeping and Gnashing of Teeth

2 March, 2026
Posted in: Dublin, Ireland

My dentist has been at me to get a mouth guard for my night time teeth grinding. I had one before and I stopped using it because I hated it.

However, bits of my teeth kept chipping off in a most distressing manner and I resigned myself to the inevitable. I now have the most sophisticated mouth guard known to man. It is 3D printed. It is form fitting. It’s still very uncomfortable, thanks for asking.

I didn’t ask the dentist how much it would cost (€22 in any sports shop) expecting the expense to be relatively modest. When I got a bill for €495, I nearly keeled over. Apparently, it’s an orthodontic treatment technically. And I guess they charge what they like for orthodontic treatment? I suppose it’s another incentive to wear the wretched thing.

Arts etc.

1 March, 2026
Posted in: Reading etc.

I went to see Prima Facie in the Gaiety with Jodie Comer. I was not Jodie Comer conscious before this but that was a quite extraordinary one-woman show. I think it was honestly the most impressive acting I have ever seen in my life. Difficult themes though – sexual assault and how it is treated in the courts.

I saw Eureka Day in the Gate. Philippa Dunne who plays Anne in Motherland was in it. She was good and somehow like her character in Motherland and also not. It’s set in a very right on school community in California and that provides some laughs. It was not entirely a comedy but enjoyable overall.

A colleague recommended Chengdu hotpot restaurant in Capel Street as a dining experience and I was curious. Mr. Waffle, middle child and I went along to investigate. The food was delicious but I thought I would like cooking my own food but definitely not. Also the table was like a crime scene by the time we had finished. Middle child said that we were the least adept people with chopsticks on the planet. Possibly true.

Mr. Waffle and I went to Newbridge House where we used to go a lot when the kids were small. The house tour is entertaining. The outdoor attractions were slightly waterlogged. I felt very sorry for these llamas.

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I offer you Mr. Waffle’s witticism by way of caption, “Alpaca raincoat next time”. Mr. Waffle also dug out this picture from our time in Argentina of where the llamas should be enjoying themselves.

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We saw Twinless in the cinema. It’s about the death of a twin. It’s supposed to be funnyish but it was a bit excruciating. Interesting in places and also funny in places but I wouldn’t totally recommend. My enjoyment was not helped by forgetting my glasses. Even though we were in row 2 and the director favoured an in-your-face kind of shot, I can’t say everything was as clear as I would have liked. And then a very smelly man sat in front of me. The blind, malodorous viewing experience may have affected my overall rating here.

Mr. Waffle booked us tickets to see Fair Deal in the Peacock. We went on a Monday. As we cycled in dolefully, I think we were both wondering why on earth we were going to this on a Monday of all days. I had understood it was about the fair deal nursing home scheme (you don’t need to know) and posed complex moral questions. It was, at a headline level, about the scheme but no complex moral questions were posed. It was a farce, it was hilarious and I loved it. So did all the pensioners in the audience (Monday night appears to be pensioners’ night in the theatre; we had a significant impact on the age and gender balance in the theatre). If you’ve watched the Walsh Sisters, the actress who plays Rachel in it is a woman called Caroline Menton; she’s in this too. And very good she is too as are the two other main actors (there’s a fourth actor who only has a bit part who’s a bit weaker). Highly recommended.

We’ve started watching How to get to Heaven from Belfast on Netflix. It’s been the subject of mixed reviews but I’m really enjoying it. There was a Slate podcast on it and because I’m watching it, I thought I’d have a listen. The American host referred to the actresses Sinéad Keenan (Shinaid) and Caoilfhionn Dunne (Keelan) and pronounced their names perfectly. I was pretty impressed, in fairness to him. But then he mentioned Roisin Gallagher (Rosheen Gallaher – the g is silent, I promise you, never mind what you know about Oasis) and called her Roy Sin Galla Ger. Two out of three ain’t bad, I guess. It’s funny though because in the show Roisin Gallagher’s character is called Saoirse (pronunciation varies but Seersha would be pretty common) and there’s a joke where an English woman addresses her as Srshly and the character says, “Really, Srshly?”

Last night Mr Waffle and I went to a supper club in a big house in north county Dublin. It felt slightly like a work dinner – nice food, beautiful setting, beautifully laid table with a centrepiece involving, inter alia, two taxidermied pheasants, but a lot of mingling and chatting to strangers. If we went again, we’d bring some friends. But overall an interesting and broadly positive experience.

And finally today, I saw these bronze heads that are installed on Grand Canal Quay. You really have to see them to appreciate them but I thought they were fantastic. Strongly recommended.

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Seen anything good yourself?

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