My oldest friend was talking about her next door neighbours from when she was growing up and what they are up to now. I knew them a bit as well. I remember their dog. “Yes,” said my friend, “the boys were obsessed with World War II and that’s why they called the dog Rommel.” Until that very moment I had believed Rommel to be a perfectly normal name for a dog. It’s not like I hadn’t heard of Rommel the Desert Fox but until then, these two things had lived in different corners of my brain. I would say, I knew Rommel the dog first.
Ireland
What news?
I am very much enjoying the shop window display for the new perfume from Cloon Keen. It’s called Báinín which is a kind of knitted jumper. Mr. Waffle buys me their Castaña for Christmas and I am a big fan. Cannot really speak for Báinín but worth a try, I would say. Look at her little hooves!
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Herself having played Trivial Pursuit while on holidays in France asked whether we had it. Well, this was the moment I had been waiting for, I had rescued it from my parents’ house in Cork. The questions were perhaps a bit dated but it worked all the same. We also found (unopened), what the young people would call an expansion pack. A set of questions (in French – obviously bought by my parents with pedagogical intent) from 1993 still pristine in their cellophane. “Perhaps they are worth money! ” I said. Available for €6 on the internet, in case you are interested.
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We also played a game called poetry for Neanderthals. It relies heavily on you knowing whether a word has more than one syllable. I am quite terrible at it (nobody wanted to be on my team) but I found it enjoyable all the same as you get to hit fellow players on the head with an inflated rubber club.
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Every year, July is a disastrous month for Mr. Waffle. It is consistently his busiest month. I did not know that this would happen when I elected to get married on July 28. Every year our anniversary celebrations are a little fraught.
Mostly poor Mr. Waffle has been working all weekend but he did take last Sunday off to cycle out to Howth which was pleasant and where, miraculously, we missed the rain.
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Now, stay with me here. A colleague of mine went to a funeral last week. This being Ireland, one of the sons of the deceased actually lives across the road from me. My colleague realised this and said to the son, “Actually, my colleague lives across the road from you” and mentioned me by name. He (the colleague) knows my road because his aunt lives there – are you still with me? Anyway, the colleague said, no sooner had he uttered my name than – much to his surprise – the elderly woman who had been introduced to him as the deceased’s next door neighbour, grabbed his arm and said, “Her mother was my best friend from college”. He thought she was crazy, but, she most definitely was not.
So anyhow, having had her rather surprisingly brought to mind, I felt I should go and visit my mother’s best friend which I did yesterday. She’s broadly fine, thanks for asking. She told me she had met a colleague of mine at her next door neighbour’s funeral. Colour me unsurprised. She grows rhubarb and, at her urging, I took her remaining supply which she felt she would be unable to use (jam season is upon us, I have just made my first batch of plum jam, rhubarb to follow).
She lives near the seaside so I went for a quick swim before heading home. My first of the year. Chilly. A very robust elderly gentlemen jumped in while I stood on the steps contemplating my options making me feel very inadequate but I got in eventually and, of course, it was lovely once you were down etc.
Today Mr. Waffle and I had a low key adventure cycling to Chapelizod along the river. Pleasant in a mild way. God, I am really looking forward to my summer holidays though. I am contemplating my return to the salt mines tomorrow with low levels of enthusiasm. I trust you had an enjoyable weekend yourself.
Late June/Early July Round Up – Bringing you Right Up to Date – Thrills
Friday, June 28, 2024
I was travelling to Cork for the the weekend and began receiving increasingly apocalyptic messages from the train people about how busy it was going to be. There were matches on, and festivals and concerts. As Mr. Waffle put it, “Overcrowding Taylor’s Version”. Honestly possibly followed by “I’m the problem it’s me”. It turns out everyone in the country is a Taylor Swift fan. Anyway, the trains were grand, you will be relieved to hear.
Saturday, June 29, 2024
The reason for my trip to Cork was to visit an old school friend. She has moved to the US and has an American husband and four American children but she bought a house in Kinsale years ago and they come to Ireland for a fortnight every summer. Genius.
I took the bus from Cork to Kinsale to see her. I haven’t been on the bus to Kinsale in years. The last time I took the bus, it was ancient, drafty, irregular and the journey took about an hour. Well, well, well things have changed I can tell you. It was a private operator (yeah, I know, they hoover up the profitable routes etc.) and the bus was convenient, punctual, clean, comfortable and speedy. It only took 25 minutes to get to Kinsale which is faster than I would do it in the car. God I was delighted.
My friend met me in the car park in town. She and her husband had had terrible food poisoning during the week and they were both still feeling a little delicate but definitely on the mend. She and I went out for a walk to the Bulman – a classic adventure – and had lunch. She couldn’t face the mussels – and who could blame her? – but I can confirm that they were very satisfactory.
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Then we went back to her house so that I could inspect her children. They get bigger all the time don’t they? Her eldest son has just finished first year in college and her only daughter is starting in the autumn. All three boys still look more of less the same but her daughter has really grown up. She is a very pretty young woman and she made me feel about 102 through no fault of her own; it’s just I remember her aged 3.
While I was there, this super yacht passed by and apparently it belongs to some very rich American family who spent €80 million on it. My friends tell me the super rich Americans have bought the lovely house where my great uncle and aunt lived in the ’50s. I can tell you, the more I hear about this house, the greater my regret that my great aunt decided to sell it and move back to the city after my great uncle died. Oh well. I’m not super rich, but I’m happy.
My friend and I went back into town, explored the shops and had a cup of tea. The rain had held off for our walk in the morning but it made up for it in the afternoon. Still all grand; Kinsale is well supplied with shops worth exploring.
I was really glad I made the trip; my friend has made such an effort to stay in contact with her Irish friends and family and I am always impressed by her dedication. We met in New York last year when I was having my delightful break from work. Possibly there will be more of this kind of thing in our future.
I was staying in my brother’s house as my sister had visitors (she is in my parents’ house and my brother is in my aunt’s house which is next door, I am not sure how any of us feels about this) but I dropped in to see her in the evening. All very pleasant.
My brother had gone up to Dublin that afternoon (it’s like Lannigan’s Ball) so I had the house to myself for the evening.
Sunday, June 30, 2024
While I still bitterly lament the demise of the Crawford Gallery cafe (they have a new tenant, not at all as good), I am becoming very fond of the Good Day Deli which has an strong rus in urbe vibe and very good food.
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After a quick breakfast and a farewell to my sister, I hightailed it back to Dublin. Not though before my sister had shown me a big picture of my mother and two of her classmates on the front page of the Irish Times. I can only speculate that the sight of a woman getting a master’s in science snagged the editor’s interest in the 1950s. I would say that was probably the last time a UCC conferring has featured on the front page of the Irish Times as they don’t like to include content from beyond the Pale, if at all possible. I have to say, not a great photo of my mother but there you are, exciting all the same.
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Also, at the opposite end of the academic journey, my sister had found my father’s progression card from kindergarten to first grade. Goodness, gracious me, that card has had quite the journey.
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Monday, July 1, 2024
Mr. Waffle and I went to see “Inside out”. It’s the kind of film that’s better if you have a young child to hand who can be persuaded to go with you. We did not.
Tuesday, July 2, 2024
Herself returned home. Let joy be unconfined etc. It is nice to have all five of us together.
Friday, July 5, 2024
I worked from home and so was in a position to see two of my three children go out for a morning run around the park. Michael a boy after my own heart, stayed in bed (he was up all night talking to his friends and following the UK general election). Where will it all end?
The Princess, Daniel and I went out for lunch together locally (Mr. Waffle was at a conference and Michael has no interest in food – how can he be my child?) and very pleasant it was too.
We spent the evening with all five of us hunched over the dining room table booking our summer holiday. Not everyone is available at the same time. The logistical challenge has left us all in an enfeebled state.
Saturday, July 6, 2024
I went to the Women Impressionists exhibition in the National Gallery. It was fine and I might go back and have another look but I was not overwhelmed. It had only four women impressionists – are there more? Don’t look at me. Berthe Morisot, Mary Cassat and Eva Gonzalès I had heard of but Marie Bracquemond was new to me. I am scheduled to go to a lecture on the exhibition next week and perhaps I will be in a better position to appreciate it thereafter. It’s one thrill after another here, right?
Mid June Round Up
Friday, 14 June, 2024
Our next door neighbour turned 60 – honestly looks absolutely amazing, an inspiration to us all -and invited us to a party in Donegal where her mother was from. We decided to proceed slowly (it’s a long way from Dublin) and set off Friday evening after work. We stayed in Monaghan at Castle Leslie about which I have heard plenty. The Castle was full for a wedding so we stayed in the lodge. I guess I must have been through Monaghan before but I’ve never stayed there. It feels very northern (though in the Republic). Castle Leslie is only 20kms from Armagh and it was obviously cut off from it’s natural hinterland by the Border. There used to be a train line but it was shut down, in the 20s I think, following partition. Odd spot.
The lodge was quite pleasant in a Victorian gothic kind of way (it reminded me a bit of UCC) but the rooms, though nice were a bit bland – an interior designer’s country house. But fine and the food was good at breakfast and reasonable at dinner.
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We went for a walk up to view the castle. Holy mother of God, it is so ugly. Scottish baronial (not a style I am partial to, I must confess) but an insult to that name. It is the ancestor of a million McMansions. I regret to say that I have no photos but doubtless the website will give you an idea. The older church in the grounds is a much nicer building.
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I was a bit confused by the Protestant church, as the guide to the peerage in the main house had the young Leslies attending Downshire and Ampleforth (Catholic boarding schools in England), but apparently one of the baronets married an American (sister to Winston Churchill’s mother) and her son either converted or was always Catholic. Apparently he was a big supporter of independence and while his father (a staunch unionist) was parading the Ulster volunteers at the front of the house, he was sneaking out the back to join the rebels. I think it is to the staunch unionist, or possibly his father, that we owe the insult to Scottish baronial style as the architect (I looked him up) seems otherwise to have produced inoffensive enough buildings albeit in the heavy style of the time. I can imagine him getting directions. There is a loggia round the back. Honestly, not awful but not consistent with the style elsewhere. Inside there is a portrait gallery filled with, I’m sorry, terrible paintings by this 19th century baronet. There are also frescoes, the less said of these the better.
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However, overall, it’s actually grand inside with lovely views and the interior is much less bland than the lodge.
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I wouldn’t mind staying in the main house some time, if it didn’t beggar us.
The grounds are massive and lovely to stroll around provided you keep your back to the castle (“where every prospect pleases and only man is vile” or words to that effect as someone or other said).
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In the car on the way up there, I was congratulating myself on currently having no injuries. Hubris. Alas, I gave my toe an almighty wallop on a hidden step in the very fancy bathroom attached to our room and was convinced I had broken it. However, it was fine in a couple of days so possibly I exaggerated the pain.
Saturday, June 15, 2024
It has been a long held ambition of mine to visit the Ulster American folk park. My children will tell you that I love a folk park. Mr. Waffle said to me, “When will we be this close again?” so rather than go immediately to Donegal as we had originally intended we stopped off. Well, what a treat for folk park lovers. Firstly, it’s pretty empty and secondly, it’s excellent. It’s built around the old Mellon homestead. When Mr. Mellon went to America he became one half of Carnegie Mellon and his descendants bought the house and provided seed funding for the park and possibly still provide money for all I know. My friend from Belfast remembers it opening in 1976 and he says it was such a grim time in the North, its opening was a positively thrilling event. I was thrilled, I can tell you.
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There is a slightly dull exhibition which tells you about the lives of three emigrants whose houses you will see in the park; one is, no surprises, young Mellon; another is a Catholic young man whose mother wanted him to be a priest and who ended up as bishop of New York (dream big young man) and is buried under the altar of the cathedral there; and the third is a relatively rich man who went trapping and ended up with a house in the American South (where you ask? You might well ask but I have forgotten. Alas.)
We pushed fairly quickly through this and started in the park proper. You start off in Ulster. They’ve moved buildings into the park from other parts of the North which was something I thought only Americans did. They had people dressed up in old fashioned clothes to tell you about the history of the houses. They also have turf fires going in the houses (very bad for the bogs, I know, but so pleasant) and somehow the smoke coming up from the chimneys made it all seem so authentic (though the spotless nature of everything slightly detracted from that, surely, even in Ulster, labourers’ cottages were never so clean and tidy?). God, I was delighted. When people ask whether I would prefer to have the power to fly or be invisible (more frequent than you might think), I always pick invisible as I just want to see into other people’s houses, so the visit to the park is basically a superhero adventure.
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Then having seen old Ulster, you’re brought to a town to get on a ship to the new world. The town is fantastic: shops and pubs brought from all over the place. We were chatting to the man in the draper’s and he told us that it originally came from Derry. This was my favourite part.
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I was amused to see this sign which the authorities have obviously not yet removed in their post-Brexit cull.
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Then you go into a big shed and you’re on the quays with a ship awaiting your departure and a ticket office on the quayside.
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You get on the ship, you come out the far side and, hey presto, you’re in the new world. I thought it was really cleverly done.
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Once you clear the town, you’re into all sorts of American homesteads many of them (possibly all of them) brought from America. How extraordinary. One of the guides said that the house brought from Tennessee ran into some difficulties as it was set up in a bog in Northern Ireland but they seem to have addressed this.
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After our successful tour of Ulster and the US, we pushed on to Donegal. Although it was alternately overcast and lashing rain in the Ulster American folk park, the sun was splitting the stones in Donegal and we had the most beautiful drive into Falcarragh.
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Our hosts had laid on all kinds of trips during the day – a walk up Mount Errigal, a boat ride to Inishbofin – but none of these things would be much fun in the rain. How great was my FOMO when I discovered that the weather had been beautiful all day on the Donegal coast? Very great, I have to tell you. Many of our neighbours were there and if another one told me about the amazing swim they had on Inishbofin, I was not going to be responsible for my actions. You can’t have it all, I suppose.
The party was great, however, with music and dancing and food and cake. I took these, not great, photos from the balcony of the hotel at 22.33 and 00.38. What a glorious day.
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Overall, a good day. It was my mother’s anniversary – she died five years ago and I think she would have been delighted to think of me having such an enjoyable day.
Sunday, June 16, 2024
We checked out in the morning and heard the hotel staff speaking fluent Irish to each other; it was so nice to hear Irish being used in that way. Utterly incomprehensible, mind you. Mr. Waffle chatted away as Gaeilge but I could only watch and admire.
We went for a walk on the beach and a bite of lunch before heading back to Dublin. Honestly the weather was much more what I expect from Donegal in June.
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The house was empty when we got home which was a bit weird. The guys were in Cork for the weekend helping their aunt empty out the attic before the roofers came. Augean stables spring to mind.
Monday, 17 June 2024
I was up with the lark to get the ferry to Wales.
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Then I drove to Oxford – about four and a half hours solid – went into town and helped herself pack up her things. I thought she might be sad about saying goodbye but she was quite cheerful. When we had finished the epic packing task we went out for dinner with her young man. I retired to my bed exhausted about 10.
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Tuesday, 18 June 2024
I insisted on us setting off at the crack of dawn as I am always worried something terrible will happen near Birmingham and I am terrified by the prospect of having to overnight in Holyhead due to having missed the ferry.
We had breakfast in Oxford and set off before 10 (ok, technically, possibly not the crack of dawn). Despite the best of intentions to travel along the M6 (tolled) motorway, we failed to find it. The main M6 is exhaustingly busy in my view. Nevertheless, as herself confidently predicted we made good time so I was merciful and we stopped in Conwy (which I find a charming town though a little down on its luck) for lunch.
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We made the ferry no problem and were safely home by 7.30 or so. Still and all I was extremely grateful to all the gods that I did not after all have to travel for work the next day.
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Herself came home with me but then promptly left two days later to fly to France for a post-college holiday (isn’t it well for them etc.). She will be restored to us on Tuesday, I am pleased to report.
Bank Holiday Round Up
I had a bank holiday filled with domestic admin and I now feel filled with virtue but I can’t say that it was my best weekend ever.
We made some effort to tidy the garden (to be honest largely unavailing) in advance of Mr. Waffle’s mother’s cousin coming to fill us in on family history. As befits an engineer, he had a tabbed lever arch file to go through with us. Interesting, in fairness, but a lot of information.
May always reminds me of Marian processions when I was in school as a child and all the Marian hymns which I love. I was not let down at Sunday mass when our (pretty conservative musically) former elderly choir mistress got up at the end of mass and told us all to sing along to “Bring Flowers of the Fairest”. Satisfactory.
In general I believe that May is Ireland’s loveliest month but that has been a challenge to believe so far this year. There has been a surprising amount of rain.
Daniel who finished his end of year exams last week has been out non-stop (sample text received at 5.50 am -“Staying at M’s house, won’t be home” – some of this think that if you’re not in by ten to six, you’re already not home for the night) living his best life undeterred by the rain. He thinks that his exams went ok bar one. We remain optimistic. He said that although the exams may be harder, the stress is far less than the Leaving Cert. This does not reflect well on the Leaving Cert, I feel. God knows, I don’t begrudge him his fun, he has worked like a dog all year.
Mr. Waffle and I went to see “The Fall Guy” on Sunday night. Despite poor reviews (the Irish Times, for example, called it a “tragically unfunny spittoon of bad ideas”), I enjoyed it. I used to love the series with Lee Majors when I was a child (remember, people, we just had one channel and we took what we got and liked it) and mortified Mr. Waffle by singing along to the theme tune when it was played at the end of the film. A win.
On Monday we cycled in the park in the rain (maybe not the outing I was hoping for), I took both boys for driving practice and we spent hours trying to figure out the logistics of our summer holiday and who will be coming and who won’t (herself may have an internship, Daniel may have resits). Preliminary work has been completed. I also booked a ferry to pick up herself in England at the end of term; a hotel for a 60th (I know) we are attending in Donegal; and a flight to go on a weekend away organised for the end of the Princess’s exams (if you were not keeping up, her finals are this year). You think this leisure activity organises itself? #mymiddleclasshell
I now find myself home alone on a Tuesday night because Daniel is out again; Michael is at the cinema (though exams start Thursday, is this wise we ask ourselves?) and Mr. Waffle is off at football. Is this the future? I have to say it has its positives but something will have to give on dinner arrangements.
And how was your own bank holiday weekend?