Dublin

I haven’t been on since before Easter. I am sure that levels of concern were high but, fear not, I am back with a detailed and fascinating report.

Holy Saturday, March 30

Herself was back from England for Easter. She pointed out that next door’s daughter was not back from Scotland and that I should rejoice. Herself has got her finals at the start of May and this is making her tense. We did watch “Irish Wish” together during the week which is an insult to the people of Ireland but great fun for spotting the locations, all of which we knew, and mocking the premise. Thrillingly, one of my brother-in-law’s rich friends who has retired and yet is full of energy (he climbed Everest for example) is one of the extras. A very rewarding view. And I cannot recommend highly enough this review of it by Patrick Freyne which is the funniest thing I have read in some time.

We went into town and bought a present for her American friends. She had wrangled money from college to fly to America and meet the subject of her dissertation. Not too shabby. A friend was kindly putting her up in New York as the grant money was not infinite.

We went to Easter mass that evening. I love when the church is in darkness and the congregation are all given candles to light. However, it was an hour and 40 minutes. What are we? Orthodox? As one of the kids said: You know you’re in trouble when they’re on the 7th reading and the next thing is the opening prayer.

Easter Sunday, March 31

We had Mr. Waffle’s siblings and families around for lunch. He cooked. It went pretty well I think and it was great to see everyone. Almost relaxing as Mr. Waffle cooked. I am sorry I forgot to take a picture of our table set for 12 as I was able to deploy a great deal (though by no means all) of my mother’s good ware of which I have now taken ownership. I am putting it in the dishwasher willy-nilly. So far so good.

Monday, 1 April

My sister-in-law was keen that we should all do a walk in Glendalough which her mother’s walking group had said that her mother really enjoyed. We all went except my poor nephew who is doing the Leaving Cert and felt he needed to study. His surprise replacement was his extremely sprightly 85 year old grandfather who had flown in that morning from Palermo (he’s Sicilian). As he trotted up the reasonably steep path beside me, I asked what time he had got up at to catch the flight. He would have had to get up at 4 had he not already risen at midnight to watch some Italian win a tennis match in America or possibly Australia. He tells me he’s writing a book about Irish saints and holy people featuring, inter alia, Blessed Thaddeus McCarthy (a Cork gentleman about whom I know very little) and he will send me the pages to review. He is indefatigable. Both he and my 6 year old niece (the youngest of the party) completed the – slightly curtailed for the capacity of the group – walk without any difficulty. My brother-in-law had got directions from my mother-in-law’s friend and while he was slightly scathing about the “turn right at the big tree” nature of the directions, they turned out to be quite effective.

The weather was a bit drizzly (certainly nothing like the 30 degree weather they had been enjoying in Palermo) but it held off. Given that the walk was short (4-5kms), the views were pretty good.

We all thought fond thoughts about my lovely mother-in-law who enjoyed the walk so much. And it only started to absolutely pour rain as we arrived in the pub for lunch. A definite win.

Saturday April 6

Nothing else happened during the week except that a friend of Michael’s said he would like one of the typewriters I have been collecting from Cork.

Look, in the end, I gave it away but kept all my exercises from the typing course I did in the summer of 1987 when I learnt to touch type – honestly a great investment. To everyone’s relief, including possibly yours, I have just thrown out the sample typed up letters, articles and menus with the errors circled.

Having lost my waterproof trousers during the week – I must have put them down somewhere in their handy bag – I decided it was time to invest in new waterproof gear. I had heard much about “Rains” gear so I invested a spectacular amount. I can attest that it is, so far, waterproof (my old gear let in water at the elbows and knees) but I do not accept that it is fashionable. On the basis that waterproof gear just isn’t.

Sticking to my new year’s resolution, Mr. Waffle and I went to the cinema. We saw “Io Capitano” which is a fictionalised account of two 16 year old boys making their way from Dakar to Sicily as illegal migrants. It is harrowing though I must say beautifully shot and acted. It does not make you feel good about being a European.

Sunday 7 April

I feel very well equipped to write a book called something like “Gentle excursions for the middle aged about an hour’s drive from Dublin”. Mr. Waffle and I made what could be called a research trip.

The paper on Saturday had a list of under-appreciated beauty spots. The article said words to the effect of “Yeah, Glendalough is terrific but it’s full of tourists – try Fore”. Having visited Fore, I would say that Glendalough is safe enough.

Not that Fore is bad. The article recommended that we begin our adventures in the local cafe which has information on Fore and its attractions. We told the lady in the cafe we had come to her on a recommendation from the Irish Times and she was touchingly delighted. Mr. Waffle wrote to her with a copy of the article after we got home and she wrote back to him thanking him for the article and sending him a picture of Fore Abbey. That gentle interaction which almost seems from a former age is a good example of the quiet charms of Fore.

There’s a former hermit’s tower. You get the keys to go in from the local pub.

There is an old church in ruins and beside it the hermit’s hangout which is an older structure on to which the local bigwigs – the Nugents- added a Victorian nave.

It’s surprisingly atmospheric inside. And obviously, you have it to yourself as you are the only one who has the keys from the pub.

Patrick Begley who died in 1616 was the last hermit in occupation.

From the ruined church there’s a good view of the ruined abbey – Henry VIII has a lot to answer for:

We dropped the keys back to pub and went to explore the abbey.

And zero effort wasrequired to get photos without anyone else in them. We pretty much had the place to ourselves until a family arrived with a number of children to climb the walls. I’ve been that soldier.

We then went for a short circular walk back to the town. A bit flat but that’s the midlands for you. Basically perfectly pleasant until the heavens opened but it stopped again shortly. The only true thing that is in Irish Wish is when the love interest says , “Don’t like the weather in Ireland? Wait five minutes.”

At each of the village there are stone gates. These are all that remain of the walls that once surrounded the town. It’s part of the Irish walled towns network but I think this is really pushing it.

Anyway when we got back to the village we had a drink in the pub before going on to explore Tullynally castle, ancestral home of the Packenhams. It’s huge and, God, really ugly. I don’t know what Francis Johnston who was employed to gothify it was thinking.

Distance lending enchantment to the view or arguably, to paraphrase a line my mother used to enjoy quoting – “where every prospect pleases and only man is vile”.

The castle was closed on Sundays but the gardens were open to the public and huge. Though it lashed rain prior to our arrival, the rain stopped when we emerged from the cafe and we spent a good hour walking around the grounds. Lovely.

Monday 8 April

I had a baptism preparation meeting. Will I ever get out of this? My children are in college. My fellow sufferer said that when she went to her baptism prep meeting with her first baby (now in her teens) the prep team were in their 80s. We’re doomed. Anyway there were three lovely couples. All fine but I raced away afterwards as I was hosting bookclub that evening. It was a slightly exhausting but nonetheless satisfactory evening.

Wednesday 10 April

Herself came back from America some time before the crack of dawn. Her time there was full of incident: her friend got sick; there was a huge storm; there was an earthquake; and then there was the eclipse and the plague of locusts. Only one of these is made up. Notwithstanding the various natural phenomena she had a terrific time and is keen to go back. I am horrified at the prospect. It’s a lot further away than England. But she loved, loved, loved New York.

She brought us all back presents. I got a tea towel and I was delighted. If you had told me when I was 20 etc. It was from some trendy spot in Brooklyn where all the stuff was made locally or in Kyrgyzstan. Surprising.

Thursday 11 April

Herself was due to turn 21 on the 12th so we went out to dinner for her birthday. One of her siblings had tickets for a ball on the Friday so we went on the Thursday. We were all making our way there from our diverse locations.

Mr. Waffle was there first. I got this message from herself as I was leaving the office.

Followed quickly by this one.

I texted Mr. Waffle an update and he replied sadly, “Sometimes I wonder if my family is German at all”. Still once we got there a good time was had by all.

Friday 12 April

Herself turned 21. I was surprised how big a milestone it felt even now when 18 is the age limit for everything. Though herself pointed out, having been in America the previous week, this is emphatically not the case everywhere.

She asked, “Where is my birthday post?” I was touched that she would want one and it will follow just as soon as I do posts on her siblings whose birthdays were on September 27. This is a demanding hobby, I can tell you. Anyway, the summary is that she’s great. Honestly, she really is.

I asked whether she wanted anything special for dinner and she asked for spaghetti Amatriciana. To my absolute astonishment we got guanciale from the Italian wholesaler down the road and it was pretty good although I significantly underestimated how long it would take and we ate at 9 so possibly anything would have tasted good by then.

Saturday 13 April

Mr. Waffle, like all Dubliners, hates Temple Bar but I have a soft spot for it. We went in there for a nice breakfast. Then we took in a photographic exhibition that Mr. Waffle had read about in the the Guardian (somehow better than the Irish Times, doubtless a post-colonial hang up). The exhibition was mostly photos of the Troubles but some from the South as well. The photographer was a Japanese guy who made his name in Vietnam as a war photographer. He moved to Ireland in the late 60s with his wife and children. Worth a visit.

When we emerged, we heard the sound of singing. I realised that it was the Messiah anniversary performance. The Messiah was first performed on Fishamble Street. The concert hall where it was held is long gone but every year there is an outdoor performance on the street nearby. So delightful. Even if we only stayed until the rain started, unlike the Lord Mayor who looked gloomily resigned to staying put for the duration. Is Temple Bar not pretty good notwithstanding all the pubs and tourists?

My sister arrived in the afternoon with presents for everyone. In particular herself who always does very well from my sister and brother (she met him earlier in the week for lunch and I gather it was a satisfactory engagement from her perspective, he hasn’t said) at birthdays and indeed other times.

My sister also brought four photo albums from the attic for me. There were photos of the burning of Cork that my Uncle Dan took in 1920. This is a great photo of my father at school in South Pasadena in the late 1920s/early 30s before the family decamped back to Ireland. My father is fifth from the right. If any of the others are still alive they would be 99 or so, so I suppose all dead now. But you never know. There are loads of photos from when my grandparents and my father and aunt lived in California.

I actually recognised lots of the pictures of my great aunts and uncles but by no means all. Labelling is very inadequate. For example there are many pictures from the 20s of people in Paris or Milan or whatever. The locations are instantly recognisable Paris (Eiffel Tower), Milan (cathedral) but the people are often a mystery. Labelling a picture Eiffel Tower is USELESS. Tell us who the people are. There are many, many more like this in Ireland. This tiny cyclist is a classic. I think it could be my father from his cycling tour around Ireland with a friend when they finished school in 1943. But honestly it could be anyone.

But were you wondering where it was? I bet you were, well not to worry because someone has gone to the trouble of clarifying that. Look at this and imagine the sound of audibly gnashing teeth. I enjoyed the several attempts to spell tunnel also but let he who is without sin etc..

As well as all her presents, my sister had made bets on a range of horses in the Grand National for all of us. The excitement. My mother used to do this when we were children but I hadn’t watched it in years. And then Daniel’s horse won! I don’t think this has ever happened in all the years we watched with my parents. Herself got a horse called Mr. Impossible who provided all the entertainment. He managed to unseat his rider relatively early on but not before he had provided endless enjoyment to those watching (except herself). The newspapers described him as “quirky”. This is fair. Apparently, recently as Leopardstown, he refused to start at all. A horse with a mind of his own.

Sunday April 14

Herself went back to England at the crack of dawn. Her father took her to the airport and it was bright and finally felt like spring – it feels like it has been grey and rainy since the end of last summer. It’s always sad when she goes.

I took myself to a worthy talk on the latest exhibition in the Gallery “Turning Heads” which is head studies by Dutch painters – Van Dyck, Rubens, Rembrandt etc. Though technically is Rubens Belgian as from Antwerp? I suppose not as there was no Belgium then (welcome to the inside of my head). Fine but perhaps I was not in the mood for it.

Monday April 15

Still at it with the new year’s resolution – we went to “The Teachers’ Room“. This is a German film about a school where there are accusations of theft and everything that can go wrong does go wrong in the investigation and Mr. Waffle kept muttering about fair procedures. Good but definitely worthy.

Wednesday April 17

I took a half day from work and we went to see “Philadelphia Here I come” where Michael, she said proudly, had one of the lead roles. It’s set in rural Ireland in the 50s/60s and it’s about a young man who’s emigrating. One actor plays his outer voice (Michael) and another guy plays his inner voice. I thought Michael was excellent. I’d never seen the play before and I found it really, really sad. Mr. Waffle said to cheer up as Michael was not in fact emigrating to Philadelphia in the morning. Afterwards Michael came out and smiled (as we thought) at his proud parents, but some young girl flew past us and gave him a big hug. Should have gone to specsavers etc. Still, all good.

Thursday April 18

Mr. Waffle was away for work and I abandoned my children to go to see an exhibtion based on the Druid O’Casey trilogy of plays. Grand and fun to be brought in on my friend’s Druid membership. And we had dinner afterwards while my children at home dined on take away pizza. At least Daniel did, Michael was out late every night this week, returning ravenous at midnight each day.

Friday April 19

Mr. Waffle came home. Hurrah. We were all delighted but the cat was ecstatic. She was really concerned about her food security in his absence.

The run of Michael’s play finished and he arrived home exhausted but pleased, I think.

Saturday April 20

An absolutely glorious day which really highlighted that some work needed to be done in the garden. “The hedge hating peasantry,” as my father used to say. I worked until the compost heap and the brown bin were full and collapsed exhausted on the sofa where Daniel and I watched the end of Dune 2. Overrated in my view.

Mr. Waffle told me that Mr. Incredible was running in the Scottish Grand National and I was moved to put a fiver on him each way. The paper said he was well rested after the Grand National at Aintree. Indeed.

He was out of the race before the first fence. To add insult to injury, other Willie Mullins trained horses came in first, fourth, fifth and sixth. I think our relationship with Mr. Incredible and his quirky ways may be drawing to a close.

In other news, Mr. Waffle is enjoying the AI art generator functionality.

Sunday, April 21 – today, I have caught up with myself at last.

The weather was beautiful (apparently this weekend is our summer, sigh). I was delighted that we already had a plan. Is there anything more stressful than fine weather in Ireland and no plan to take full advantage of it? I was very amused when in Kamila Shmsie’s book “Best of Friends”, the narrator’s father is on holiday with her in England from Pakistan (where presumably he has plenty of sunshine) and – as he is taken out to yet again enjoy the sunshine he basically says, “Would it be possible not to take advantage of the weather some time?”

Anyway, Mr. Waffle and I had planned to go for a walk in Mullaghmeen forest in Westmeath. I had never been but he told me that his mother always tried to get there at this time of year to see the bluebells. It’s a beech forest and carpeted in bluebells. It was lovely and really quiet. We hardly saw any other people. It really made me think of the wood between the worlds in CS Lewis’s “The Magician’s Nephew” – so quiet and peaceful.

You’ll have to take my word for it that the bluebells were lovely as the pictures don’t really do them justice.

We were slightly exhausted after our longish walk in the forest but very pleased with ourselves. Would recommend (part of my continuing programme of gentle outings for the middle aged within an hour’s drive of Dublin). After our walk we were, in fact, adjacent to Tullynally castle where we had so recently disported ourselves so went back there for a restorative cup of tea after our exertions – and very nice it was too.

And how have things been with you?